jockey dodges--Lizards in flight--Fashion on a donkey--On the Portillon
'twixt France and Spain--The valley of Aran--Snug Bosost--A curious
inn--Children with artistic bent--A bright pathway--Missing much, but
thankful still


CHAPTER XI.

ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES.

Keeping to old friends--Valley history--Entering the Garonne
valley--The picturesque St. Béat--St. Béat to Viella--Memories of the
lovely Thames--Baths of Ste. Marie--Loures--The cross-roads--Weak
walls--Entering St. Bertrand--An ancient house--The inn--A charming
garden--The cathedral--A national disgrace--"The Crocodile of St.
Bertrand"--The tomb of Hugues de Chatillon--Travelling desecraters--St.
Bertrand's rod--The ruined cloisters--Desolation--Swine
feeding--Montrejeau--The buffet--No milk!--French railway
officials--Trying experiences


CHAPTER XII.

EAUX BONNES AND EAUX CHAUDES.

Carriage _v_. diligence--Early birds--Height of absurdity
--Diminutive donkeys--A whitened region--"Crystal clear"--Washerwomen
and their gamps--A useful townhall--A half-way house--Moralising--A
much-loved pipe--An historic ruin--A noteworthy strong box--"Ici on
rase"--Where are the bears?--Women in gaiters--Picturesque costumes--A