glasses. "I drink one glass," says he, "for health, a second for
refreshment, a third for a friend; but he that offers a fourth is an
enemy."

As in eating, so in drinking, in the question of quantity--much depends
on the capacity of the stomach. A very abstemious friend of mine, not
long since, dined tete-a-tete with a gentleman well known for his
kindness and hospitality, and not less so for his powers of bibulation.
After dinner, at which a fair share of many excellent wines was taken,
Port and Madeira were put on the table, and before the host, a _magnum_
of Claret. My friend drank his usual quantum, three glasses of Madeira,
during which time a great portion of the magnum had disappeared; and
soon afterwards, being emptied, the host said, "I think we can just
manage a bottle between us." The bottle was brought, and very shortly
disappeared, without the aid of the visiter.

The same gentleman and Lord ----, at the Angel at Bury, fell in with
some excellent Claret. They had disposed of six bottles, when the
landlord, who did not guess or _gauge_ the _quality_ of his customers
(the bell being rung for a fresh supply,) begged very gently to hint
that it was expensive stuff, being fifteen shillings a bottle! "Oh! is
it so? then bring up two bottles directly!"

We have nothing, however, in modern times, at all equal to the account
given of some of the ancients. The elder Cato, we are told, warmed good
principles with a considerable quantity of good wine.[5] But Cicero's
son exceeds all others; so much so, that he got the name of _Bicongius_,
because he was accustomed to drink two congii[6] at a sitting. Pliny,
and others, abound in grand examples, that prove we have degenerated at
any rate in this respect, for these convivials were neither sick nor