hand--at anything. The seat of power in all this is, like the seat of
power everywhere, hot and revolutionary, and those who occupy it must be
vigilant, as only one head can control, though that is not unfrequently,
on these western waters, the Cylinder head.

The fuel is in front and along, next the furnaces; while the freight is
stacked on the bows and along the sides and aft, which is likewise the
place where the ship's crew sleep, in bunks ranged on either hand above
each other, like shelves, sheltering the sleeper only from the rains.
The live stock is usually crowded into close quarters on the after and
outlying guards, having a high railing and strong supports. By a
staircase from the main deck in front the grand saloon is reached. This
is the interesting feature of all these large river steamers. Fancy a
saloon one hundred and fifty feet in length, richly carpeted and
upholstered, having large pendant chandeliers, glittering with all the
known prismatic colors, the whole overarched by fancy scroll-work in
pleasing combination with the supports to the ceiling and floor above;
and, as is frequently the case, all being highly ornate, makes a fancy
scene not unworthy of association with the famous palace of Aladdin, as
given us in the charming stories of the _Arabian Nights_.

This, with some slight exaggerations in style, perhaps, is the home of
the traveller while journeying on this upper and most interesting
portion of the entire river.

At night, with the saloon and ship all lighted, the scene is both
inspiriting and brilliant. Above the roll of the machinery and noise of
the dashing waters comes the grateful melody of happy voices, lulling
the tired traveller to repose and chasing away from other faces all
recollection of painful responsibilities and cares.