Mekka maybe styled a handsome town; its streets are in general broader
than those of eastern cities; the houses lofty, and built of stone; and
the numerous windows that face the streets give them a more lively and
European aspect than those of Egypt or Syria, where the houses present
but few windows towards the exterior. Mekka (like Djidda) contains many
houses three stories high; few at Mekka are white-washed; but the dark
grey colour of the stone is much preferable to the glaring white that
offends the eye in Djidda. In most towns of the Levant the narrowness of
a street contributes to its coolness; and in countries where
wheel-carriages are not used, a space that allows two loaded camels to
pass each other is deemed sufficient. At Mekka, however, it was necessary
to leave the passages wide, for the innumerable visiters who here crowd
together; and it is in the houses adapted for the reception of pilgrims
and other sojourners, that the windows are so contrived as to command a
view of the streets.

The city is open on every side; but the neighbouring mountains, if
properly defended, would form a barrier of considerable strength against
an enemy. In former times it had three walls to protect its extremities;
one was built across the valley, at the street of Mala; another at the
quarter of Shebeyka; and the third at the valley opening into the
Mesfale. These walls were repaired in A.H. 816 and 828, and in a century
after some traces of them still remained.

The only public place in the body of the town is the ample square of the
great mosque; no trees or gardens cheer the eye; and the scene is
enlivened only during the Hadj by the great number of well stored shops
which are found in every quarter. Except four or five large houses
belonging to the Sherif, two _medreses_ or colleges (now converted into