sandals and socks, which I find the most comfortable way of getting on.
First half of the march along the level to the foot of the hill, then an
undulating road through a pine forest, the latter half easy walking
owing to the ground being covered with fallen fir leaves which made it
as soft as a carpet. A fine view from the top of hill, looking down to
Ghuri. The river Ghuri, a mountain torrent seen for a long distance
rushing with a great roar over its rocky bed, bounded on each side by
high hills, and above by mountains covered with snow, from the melting
of which it arises. The water is consequently icy cold, and my tub at
the end of the march was highly invigorating. Put up at the Dâk
Bungalow, a neat, clean, furnished building, standing on the right bank
of the river, which is crossed just in front by a very fair suspension
bridge. I can trace my route for to-morrow, for several miles, and I
look at it with dismay as it ascends a terribly steep hill. There are
two other men in the Bungalow, but I do not know who they are. I have
not mentioned my equipment. It is so simple that a few lines will tell
all. Two suits of old clothes, three flannel shirts, two warm under
flannels, two pair of boots, "a light pair and a heavy pair of
ammunitions," socks, handkerchiefs, &c., Mackintosh, warm bedding, a
small tent called a "shildaree," a two-rolled ridge tent, about eight
feet square, a dressing bag containing toilet requisites, a metal basin,
salted tongues and humps, potatoes, tea, sugar, flour, mustard, &c., one
bottle of brandy, to be reserved for medicinal use, a portable charpoy
or bedstead, cane stool, a little crockery, knives and forks, cooking
utensils, brass drinking cup for every purpose, a gingham umbrella with
white cover, a dandy (previously described), solar topee, and light cap,
tobacco, soap, and candles, a kookery, a stout alpen stock, a pass into
Kashmir, and bag of money, and "voilà tout." For carrying this baggage,
I require two mules, and two Coolies, or when mules are not procurable,
seven Coolies. Four other Coolies man my dandy, and these men are going