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Things To Make by Archibald Williams
page 33 of 250 (13%)

The reader should examine the diagrams (Figs. 16 to 24) to get a clear
understanding of the disposal of the parts at the corners. Fig. 16 makes it
plain that the frames of the back and front overlap the frames of the
sides, to which they are bolted; and that the covering of the back overlaps
the covering of the sides, which in turn overlaps the front frame.

All corner joints are halved. In order to allow the doors to lie flush with
the front of the doorframe uprights, the last must project the thickness of
the door boards beyond the frame longitudinals; and to bring the front
uprights of the sides up against the uprights of the door frame, the
longitudinals are notched, as shown (Fig. 16), to the depth of the set-back
for the doors.

Materials.--The question of cost and the question of materials cannot be
separated. A shed even of the dimensions given consumes a lot of wood, and
the last, that it may withstand our variable and treacherous climate for a
good number of years, should, as regards those parts directly exposed to
the weather, be of good quality. Yellow deal may be selected for the
boards; pitch pine is better, but it costs considerably more. For the
frames and non-exposed parts generally ordinary white deal will suffice.

[Illustration: FIG. 17.-Types of match boarding: (a) square joint; (b)
double.-V; (c) single-V.]

The scale drawings are based on the assumption that matching of one of the
forms shown in Fig. 17, and measuring 4 inches (actual) across, exclusive
of the tongue, and 5/8 inch (actual) thick, is used.

As advised in the case of the carpenter's bench, (p. 15) the prospective
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