the nearness of his Satanic Majesty, whom she intimately associated with
Mormondom, that it recalled the somewhat vulgar story of the "Teuton,"
who, in nearing the Virginia White Sulphur Springs, with the same fumes in
his nostrils, cried out: "Mein Gott! pe shure, hell is not more as a mile
off!"

Arriving at Salt Lake City at the close of a beautiful day, the western
sky gleaming with the royally gorgeous hues of a clear, bright sunset,
while the delightful surroundings and stimulating atmosphere lured us to
walk from the depot.

Salt Lake being at that time a city of twenty thousand souls, and this
being prior to the opening of the mines, it was probably in the hey-day of
its beauty, and could boast of but one saloon, whereas they are now very
numerous. Its broad, regular avenues were shaded with trees of such
immense growth as are known only in our western lands, the coolness and
shade of whose leafy, spreading branches invitingly appeal to the
passer-by. Streams of limpid, crystal water, born in the pure mountain
snows, gurgle down each street, and, in their beautiful borders of
nature's green enamel, impart an almost marvelous beauty to the city.

The twenty-third of July being the twenty-third anniversary of the
founding of the "City of the Saints," I had the pleasure of going to their
Temple and listening to the earnest oratory of their representative men,
and among them the "Prophet" himself. George Francis Train being also a
visitor in the city, gave a characteristic oration, in which he rehearsed
the pilgrimage of this people, their persecution, privations and pains
before reaching their haven, which seems, in its rare beauty, an almost
magical city, rising up in the wilderness as a lovely refuge, for, after
all, what magic is so potent as industry and perseverance, and how much of