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A Year's Journey through France and Part of Spain, 1777 - Volume 1 (of 2) by Philip Thicknesse
page 112 of 146 (76%)


Before I bring forth the treasures of this hospitable convent, and the
jewels of _Neustra Senora_, it may be necessary to tell you, that they
could not be so liberal, were not others liberal to them; and that they
have permission to ask charity from every church, city, and town, in the
kingdoms of France and Spain, and have always lay-brothers out,
gathering money and other donations. They who feed all who come, must,
of course, be fed themselves; nor has any religious house in Europe
(_Loretto_ excepted) been more highly honoured by Emperors, Kings,
Popes, and Prelates, than this: nay, they have seemed to vie with each
other, in bestowing rich and costly garments, jewels of immense value,
and gold and silver of exquisite workmanship, to adorn the person of
_Neustra Senora_; as the following list, though not a quarter of her
_paraphernalia_, will evince: but before I particularize them, it may be
proper to mention, the solemn manner in which the Virgin was moved from
the old to the new church, by the hands of King Philip the Third, who
repaired thither for that purpose privately as possible, to prevent the
prodigious concourse of people who would have attended him had it been
generally known. He staid at the convent four days, in which time he
visited all the hermitages above, in one; but returned, greatly
fatigued, and not till ten o'clock at night. After resting himself the
next day, he heard mass, and being confessed, assisted at the solemnity
of translating the Virgin, in the following manner:--After all the
monks, hermits, and lay-brothers had heard mass, and been confessed, the
Virgin was brought down and placed upon the altar in the old church, and
with great ceremony, reverence, and awe, they cloathed her in a rich
gold mantle, the gift of the Duke of _Branzvick_, the sleeves of which
were so costly, that they were valued at eighteen thousand ducats. The
Abbots, Monks, hermits, &c. who were present, wore cloaks of rich gold
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