enthusiasm) about those two most artificial of the arts. What
struck me most were, the mistress of Raphael, a portrait; the
mistress of Titian, a portrait; a Venus of Titian in the Medici
gallery--_the_ Venus; Canova's Venus also in the other gallery:
Titian's mistress is also in the other gallery (that is, in the
Pitti Palace gallery): the Parcæ of Michael Angelo, a picture: and
the Antinous, the Alexander, and one or two not very decent groups
in marble; the Genius of Death, a sleeping figure, &c. &c.

"I also went to the Medici chapel--fine frippery in great slabs of
various expensive stones, to commemorate fifty rotten and forgotten
carcasses. It is unfinished, and will remain so.

"The church of 'Santa Croce' contains much illustrious nothing. The
tombs of Machiavelli, Michael Angelo, Galileo Galilei, and Alfieri,
make it the Westminster Abbey of Italy. I did not admire any of
these tombs--beyond their contents. That of Alfieri is heavy, and
all of them seem to me overloaded. What is necessary but a bust and
name? and perhaps a date? the last for the unchronological, of whom
I am one. But all your allegory and eulogy is infernal, and worse
than the long wigs of English numskulls upon Roman bodies in the
statuary of the reigns of Charles II., William, and Anne.

"When you write, write to _Venice_, as usual; I mean to return
there in a fortnight. I shall not be in England for a long time.
This afternoon I met Lord and Lady Jersey, and saw them for some
time: all well; children grown and healthy; she very pretty, but
sunburnt; he very sick of travelling; bound for Paris. There are
not many English on the move, and those who are, mostly homewards.
I shall not return till business makes me, being much better where