_July 2._--Two hours in getting off again! We started at six and went on
until past five in the afternoon, following a south-west course along
the same wady, with the same low line of sand-hills on our left, and
sand and the low edge of the plateau, which the people say extends many
days' journey, on our left. This valley is so shallow that it might
almost be considered as part of the plateau, and is, in fact, nearly on
a level with it; the temperature tells us we are on very high land. It
is cool for this season, and the Tuaricks even complain of chilliness at
night. Sometimes I am disposed to think the hot weather is passed, but
we must take into account the strong breeze blowing from the north-east.

The broad bed of the valley is covered with pebbles of sandstone,
between which glanced a few, very few, lizards. Rarely did any living
thing cheer our eyes as we moved along this dismal track. Now and then
gazelles, in threes and fours, went scouring away far out of reach. One
or two small birds fluttered from stone to stone; and some crows cawed
at us from a distance. This is true Fezzan scenery. The mirage and all
its illusions cloaked the plain in various directions, as if seeking to
hide its dull uniformity.

However, this desolate region has really been of late visited by rain,
as we had been told. We encamped towards evening near a great standing
pool, which, if the weather remain moderate, will supply the caravans
for months to come. A shower is a vulgar occurrence in Europe, received
by most men, except agriculturists, as an annoyance. In the desert it
has all the value of a heaven-sent gift. It is shed not periodically;
but at intervals of time and place suddenly descends in copious
drenchings. We often came upon spots which had been ploughed up as by a
torrent from the skies; and few rocks in the Sahara are without