CHAPTER X.

Approach Ghât--Description of the Town--The Oasis--Reminiscences of a
former Visit--Azgher Tuaricks--The Governor--Political Authority--The
Sheikhs--Protection of Strangers--The Litham--Business--Reception--Meetings
of Sheikhs--Disputes--Tax on liberated Slaves--Extortion practised on
us--Discussion on the Treaty--Scramble for Presents--Haj Ahmed
disinterested--Hateetah plays double--More Presents and further
Annoyances--Mahommed Kafa--Escort of Kailouees--A Visit from Ouweek and
the Bandit of Ghadamez--Observations on the Treaty--Collection of
Dialogues--The Great Exhibition.


We were up early on the morning of the 18th, and prepared to make our
official approach to the town of Ghât, which was now distant only two
hours. I had already visited the place, and was familiar with its
aspect; but must introduce a few words of description for the sake of
the reader of the present narrative. Ghât is situated on the spur of a
lofty hill, which overlooks it from the north. It is surrounded by
miserable walls not more than ten feet high, pierced by six weak gates.
The houses are not whitewashed, like those of Moorish towns, but retain
the dirty hue of the unburnt brick and mud with which they are built. A
single minaret worthy the name, and one large building used as a general
lodging-house, rise above the flat roofs of the rest of the town. Some
few palm-trees bend gracefully here and there; but, in general, the
groves of the oasis are a little distant from the walls. There is a
suburb of some fifty houses of stone and mud; and a number of huts, made