Sahara, raised into magnificence perhaps by the mirage of report, was
the unknown kingdom of Aheer, of which Leo Africanus hints something,
but the names of whose great cities are scattered as if at haphazard
over the maps, possibly hundreds of miles out of their right position.
What reception shall we meet with in that untried land? In what light
will its untravelled natives--fierce from ignorance and bigotry--regard
this mission of infidels, coming from latitudes of which they have never
dreamed, with objects unappreciable and perhaps hostile? Will nature
itself be hospitable? Are there no enemies in the climate, no perils
peculiar to the seasons? These questions occupied my mind as the caravan
wound between the last palm-groves of Ghât; and my camel, resuming its
swinging march, went away with its neck advanced like a bowsprit over
this desert sea, which might be scattered with hidden dangers at every
step.

The wind does not always serve at the outset of a voyage. Our first
stage was only of two hours southwards, as far as Berket, a considerable
town, well walled, situate under a low hill, and surrounded with
palm-trees and gardens. The people visited us on our arrival; all proved
troublesome and some insolent. I had heard a better account of them.
Their country is pleasanter than themselves, certainly the most
picturesque piece of desert I have seen since leaving Tripoli. A range
of lofty black mountains extends on the east, with mounds of sand and
smaller hills at their base, dotted with the beautiful ethel-tree; palms
rise in abundance on all sides; gardens surround the wells; and animals
feed about on the plain. The scenery is quite rich, and even suggests
the idea of fertility. The Tuaricks possess many similar fine valleys.

We started late next day from Berket, and made only four hours to a
well. Here it was necessary to wait for Waled Shafou, and the three