_6th._--We were off soon after sunrise, and made a long day of twelve
hours. The Kailouees were half an hour more performing the same
distance. They started first, and we travel a little faster than they.
Scarcely a blade of herbage cheered our sight to day. A sandy, gravelly
hamadah, with a few rocks and sand-hills here and there,--such is the
nature of the country. The rocks now assume a conic form, _ke ras
suker_, like a sugar-loaf, as the people say. Our course was south-west,
and so it will continue to be, nearly as far as Esalan, I was amused by
an observation of Dr. Overweg; he said, "I now understand the system of
these people" (Saharan travellers). "It is to travel as much as possible
without labour--to do all that is necessary, but nothing more. When we
left Tripoli, instead of reposing immediately at the camping-ground of
the caravan, everybody was running about to climb the hills and rocks;
but now we all fall down to rest as soon as we have halted." The Doctor
speaks of himself and Barth, certainly not of me; for I always rested as
much as possible with the people.

My old broken white umbrella attracts some attention amongst the
Kailouees. They all make a trial of it. Strong umbrellas would be very
useful during the hot summer months for all Saharan travellers.

I to-day asked the son of Shafou how his father liked the sword. An
unfortunate question. He replied, "Ah, he sends his compliments; but
says the sword is a little thing, and that you ought to have sent him
some money. There were many people waiting to see you at Aroukeen. They
were much disappointed at your not coming. They said,--'The Christians
must pass this way.'" It appears that a whole tribe of Tuaricks were
waiting for us, to beg, and to "eat us up," as the Arabs graphically
express it. In this respect we have been fortunate in not finding
Tuaricks on our line of route.