these poor wretches were engaged in cutting one another's throats, the
conqueror has come and established his tyranny. They are now paying the
penalty of their love of shamatah in the shape of an impost of four
hundred mahboubs per annum, and in numbers are reduced to about a
hundred and thirty heads of families.

We had some additional camel-drivers from Kaleebah, who, of course,
endeavoured to extort more than they had agreed for. When we had
squabbled with them a little, we had the honour of receiving Sheikh
Omer, of Mizdah, in the tent. He came with about thirty notables of the
place, the greater part of whom sat outside the doorway, whilst he
stroked his beard within, indulging in a touch of eau de Cologne and a
cup of coffee. We read him the circular-letter of Izhet Pasha, and
received all manner of civilities. The next day, indeed, he came to us
to serve as guide through the country over which he wields delegated
dominion. He had not far to go. His empire is a mere pocket one. The
palm-trees are about three hundred in number, and there are but
half-a-dozen diminutive fields of barley ripening in the ear, fed by
irrigation from several wells which supply tolerably sweet water. A few
onion-beds occur in the little gardens, which are partially shaded by
some small trees.

Sheikh Omer supplied us with copious bowls of milk; the most refreshing
thing, after all, that can be drank in the heat of the day. We were,
however, impatient to get off, but had to wait for a blacksmith to shoe
the horses of our chaouch. The only knowing man in this department was
away at some neighbouring village, and it was necessary to send
messengers to find him. There being nothing better to do, the day,
accordingly, was spent in quarrelling. We had at least a hundred
tongue-skirmishes between our people and the people of Mizdah--between