the aoudad and the gazelle. Indeed, out of the line of route, amongst
the hills, there are wells and Arab tents. The presence of Roman remains
reminds us that the country has seen more prosperous times. We encamped
on the 11th in a wady, overlooked by the ruins of a mausoleum, which had
assumed colossal proportions in the distance. Some Berber letters were
carved upon its walls; probably by Tuaricks, who had formerly inhabited
the district.

One of our blacks this day killed a lêfa, the most dangerous species of
snake; and several thobs or lizards were caught. The greyhound of the
Fezzanee also ran down a hare. Next day it procured us a gazelle; but
with these exceptions were seen only ground-larks, and what we call in
Lincolnshire water-wagtails.

It is worth mentioning that at this place our chaouch sprained his
ankle, and Dr. Overweg applied spirits of camphor as lotion. This
terrible fellow, this huge swaggerer, this eater-up of ordinary timid
mortals, was reduced to the meekness of a lamb by his slight accident;
and for the first time since the caravan was blessed with his presence
did he remain tranquil, breathing out from time to time a soft
complaint. In the course of the day he had contrived to make himself
particularly disagreeable. First he fell out with the servant of the
Germans, Mahommed of Tunis. Then he quarrelled with us all, because he
picked up a blanket for somebody and was refused his modest demand of
three piastres as a reward. We are heartily glad that he is tamed for
awhile.

On the 12th, shortly after we started, I happened to look behind and
saw, coming from the west, some clouds that seemed to give promise of
rain. Already I felt the air cooled by anticipation, but was soon