As we could not expect to commence the traject of the dreaded plateau
immediately, I resolved to go upon a visit to the village of Western
Ghareeah. The camel-drivers of the caravan, of course, told us that it
was at the distance of one hour--_Saha bas!_ but we found it to be three
hours in a north-east direction. Time is of little consequence in the
desert, and no means are possessed or desired of measuring it with
exactitude. It has already been observed by a traveller, that the
Bedawin will describe as _near_ an object a hundred yards off, or a well
two days' journey from you. Western Ghareeah was likewise described as
_grayeb_, but we thought for some time that we had ventured upon an
interminable desert. However, the ground at length dipped, and a green
wady disclosed itself. We could scarcely, at first, find anybody to
receive us. But after waiting some time, the people came unwillingly
crawling out one after the other. We told them our errand--"To look at
the country and buy barley." They swore they had none--not a grain; but
when we swore in our turn that we would pay them for what we wanted,
they admitted having a little that belonged to some people in Fezzan. I
was amused with the eloquent indignation of our burly chaouch when they
professed complete destitution at first. "You dogs! do you live on
stones?" cried he. This was a settler; and showed them that they had
knowing ones to deal with. Of course their original shyness arose from
fear lest we might rob them. When a bargain was struck they became quite
friendly, and brought us out some oil, barley-cakes, and boiled
eggs--all the luxuries of the oasis!

Ghareeah Gharbeeah stands on the brow of a limestone rock, on the
western side of a valley, which we had to cross in approaching between
date plantations and a few fields of barley. It was an ancient Roman
city; and there remains still an almost perfect bas-relief of a Victoria
on one side of the eastern gateway, which is composed of limestone