traversed; but our eyes soon turned from so bleak a prospect, when we
beheld, dotting the sandy wady, clumps of the wild palm, green copses,
and the majestic ethel-tree.

It was about two in the afternoon when we reached the camping-ground,
all our people shouting, "_Be-Selameh el Hamadah!_" Farewell to the
Hamadah! I cried out the same words in a joyful voice; for, although now
that the dangers of the plateau were overcome they seemed diminished in
my eyes, yet I felt that we had escaped from a most trying march with
wonderful good fortune. It is difficult to convey an idea of the horror
and desolation of so vast a tract of waterless and uninhabited country.
They alone who have breathed the sharp air of its blank nakedness can
appreciate it, or understand how any accidental delay, sickness, the
bursting of the water-skins, the straying of the camels, might produce
incalculable sufferings, and even death. "_Be-Selameh el Hamadah!_"
then, with all my heart. "_Be-Selameh! be-Selameh!_" again rings through
the caravan, as we reach at length our camping-ground, and throw
ourselves at full-length under the pleasing shade. Even the
camel-drivers were so fatigued, that they stretched out as soon as the
command to halt was given, and let their animals stray at will, without
taking the trouble to unload them. I had observed the same supineness
during our halts all through this trying district, which seems to
oppress their imaginations as well as prostrate their bodies. Several
times I had been obliged myself to collect wood and make a fire to rally
our lagging servants. Indeed, on more than one occasion I was compelled
to exert my personal authority. On the third night, particularly, I
wished all the people to rest one hour. The camel-drivers resisted this
reasonable request, and were backed by Yusuf. When it became a question
between myself and my interpreter, I jumped off my camel and stopped the
caravan. The chaouch supported me, and in this case at least behaved