with a bottle of snuff. Like other great men, this Pasha makes a great
consumption of rappee, and empties nearly a box a-day.

_10th._--The military seem to have taken a fancy to us. Here comes the
Commandant, to return our call, with all the officers of the garrison.
Smiles and courtesy are the order of the day. Dr. Overweg brings out
some of his scientific instruments, and the knowing ones have an
opportunity of showing their ignorance. All passes off well. Mr.
Gagliuffi observes: "You would not have had so much attention paid to
you in Tripoli." Possibly; but this may partly be accounted for by the
rarity of Europeans at Mourzuk. Familiarity has not had time to breed
contempt.

_11th._--There is excitement in the town. What news? The new acting
Governor, my old acquaintance of Ghadamez, Rais Mustapha, is in sight,
hull above the horizon. We all go out to meet him, and soon see his
_cortège_ breaking between the groves. This is the gayest and most
spirited scene I have witnessed since leaving Tripoli. Mustapha brings
his staff and 200 Arab cavaliers with him, to relieve the Fezzan
irregulars. They make a gallant-looking body of men as they come swiftly
on. All the authorities of the town, with whatever cavalry is already
collected here, pour out of the gates to pay their compliments; and then
come crowds of the lower classes of citizens, with their rude bagpipes,
which scream discordantly. The horsemen galloped hither and thither in
the plain whilst the interview between the great men took place, and
effectually drowned all the polite things that were said by their
trampling and hurrahing. We rode up likewise to welcome the new great
man. Mustapha looked well, was excellently mounted, and dressed almost
like an European officer. He smiled graciously on seeing his old friend
of Ghadamez, and shook me by the hand; he also recognised the Germans,