A distinct race inhabit the Bagni alla Villa--a group of houses
inaccessible to carriages, rising on a hill behind the palace
belonging to the ex-duke of Lucca. A fourth division of dwellings is
the Bagni Caldi, the highest point of all, the occupants whereof have
to descend as if from an eyrie, to gain any of the other localities.
They are a set of whom little seems to be known--quaint and unsocial
personages, venturing out at dusk like bats and owls, and looking
grimly on all but their immediate neighbours: the gentlemen, mostly
gouty, or otherwise disabled; the fairer sex, isolated and ancient,
with a marked predilection for close straw-bonnets, large brown
parasols, and blue veils.

Thus much for the first outline of the place and its frequenters. We
must now take a glance at their pursuits and enjoyments.

The general tenor of a day at the baths is easily described. Till
about five in the afternoon but few people venture out, although early
in the morning it is said that some, more active than the rest, sally
forth on their mountain rambles; but this deponent vouches not for
their number or degree, never himself having had ocular demonstration
of their movements. During the heat of the day, the greater part
remain at home, excepting, indeed, the population of the Ponte, who,
exulting in all the advantages their position unites, circulate from
the post-office to the caffè, from the caffè to the club, and condole
with such of the hapless denizens of the Villa and Bagni Caldi as a
thirst for news and devouring ennui have driven to brave a hot summer
walk to their more favoured region.

There is always, even at noon, a buzz of animation in the little
piazza of the Ponte--always a knot of worthies in loose brown holland