Modern Rome is about thirteen miles in circuit, and is divided by the
Tiber into two parts. In 1830, Rome contained 144,542 inhabitants,
35,900 houses, 346 churches, 30 monasteries, and upwards of 120 palaces.
The view of the majestic ruins; the solemn grandeur of the churches and
palaces; the recollections of the past; the religious customs; the magic
and almost melancholy tranquillity which pervades the city; the
enjoyment of the endless treasures of art--all conspire to raise the
mind of the traveler to a high state of excitement. The churches,
palaces, villas, squares, streets, fountains, aqueducts, antiquities,
ruins--in short, everything proclaims the ancient majesty and the
present greatness of Rome. Almost every church, palace, and villa is a
treasury of art. Among the churches, St. Peter's is the most
conspicuous, and is, perhaps, the most beautiful building in the world.
Bramante began it; Sangallo and Peruzzi succeeded him; but Michael
Angelo, who erected its immense dome, which is four hundred and fifty
feet high to the top of the cross, designed the greatest part. Many
other architects were often employed upon it; Maderno finished the front
and the two towers. The erection of this edifice, from 1506 to 1614,
cost 45,000,000 Roman crowns. Before we arrive at this grand temple, the
eye is attracted by the beautiful square in front of it, surrounded by a
magnificent colonnade by Bernini, and ornamented by an Egyptian obelisk,
together with two splendid fountains. Upon entering the vestibule,
Giotto's mosaic, la Navicella, is seen. Under the portico, opposite the
great door, is Bernini's great bas relief representing Christ commanding
Peter to feed his sheep; and at the ends of the portico are the
equestrian statues of Constantine by Bernini, and of Charlemagne by
Cornachini. The union of these masterpieces has an indescribable effect.
The harmony and proportion which prevail in the interior of this august
temple are such, that, immense as it is, the eye distinguishes all the