to our disappointment, that there was scarcely any improvement as to
quiet; and as papa _would_ eat a dinner instead of a luncheon at
Newport, this and the noise together soon worried his poor head into a
headache. We were confirmed in our dislike of the cars and railways,
which have many serious faults. The one window over which papa and I
(sitting together) were able to exercise entire control, opened like all
others by pushing it _up_. A consequence of this arrangement is that the
shoulder next to it is in danger of many a rheumatic twinge, being so
exposed to cold; whereas, if the window opened the reverse way, air
could be let in without the shoulder being thus exposed. I forgot in my
description of the cars, to tell you that the seats are all reversible,
enabling four persons to sit in pairs facing each other, and also if
their opposite neighbours are amiably disposed, enabling each pair to
rest their feet on the opposite seat, and if the opposite seat is empty,
the repose across from seat to seat can be still more complete; but it
is an odious contrivance, and neither repose nor rest can be thought of
in these most uncomfortable carriages. Our seats faced the front door,
and were close to it, which was very desirable as the air is clearer at
that end, and not so loaded with the impurities of so large a mass of
all classes as at the other end. We made various purchases as we went
along. First came the ticket man, then cheap periodicals, then apples
and pears, common bon-bons, and corn pop, of which I am trying to keep
a specimen to send you. It is a kind of corn which is roasted on the
fire, and in so doing, makes a _popping_ noise, whence its name. It is
pleasant to nibble. Then came iced water, highly necessary after the dry
corn pop, and finally about twenty good and well-chosen books. Papa
bought the Life of Stephenson.

But if we had room to grumble about discomforts within, we could only
admire unceasingly without the very lovely road along which we were