to translate the tallies which hang outside all Japanese houses
with the names, number, and sexes of their inmates, and in twenty-
four houses there were 307 people! In some there were four
families--the grand-parents, the parents, the eldest son with his
wife and family, and a daughter or two with their husbands and
children. The eldest son, who inherits the house and land, almost
invariably brings his wife to his father's house, where she often
becomes little better than a slave to her mother-in-law. By rigid
custom she literally forsakes her own kindred, and her "filial
duty" is transferred to her husband's mother, who often takes a
dislike to her, and instigates her son to divorce her if she has no
children. My hostess had induced her son to divorce his wife, and
she could give no better reason for it than that she was lazy.

The Numa people, she said, had never seen a foreigner, so, though
the rain still fell heavily, they were astir in the early morning.
They wanted to hear me speak, so I gave my orders to Ito in public.
Yesterday was a most toilsome day, mainly spent in stumbling up and
sliding down the great passes of Futai, Takanasu, and Yenoiki, all
among forest-covered mountains, deeply cleft by forest-choked
ravines, with now and then one of the snowy peaks of Aidzu breaking
the monotony of the ocean of green. The horses' shoes were tied
and untied every few minutes, and we made just a mile an hour! At
last we were deposited in a most unpromising place in the hamlet of
Tamagawa, and were told that a rice merchant, after waiting for
three days, had got every horse in the country. At the end of two
hours' chaffering one baggage coolie was produced, some of the
things were put on the rice horses, and a steed with a pack-saddle
was produced for me in the shape of a plump and pretty little cow,
which carried me safely over the magnificent pass of Ori and down