I invited him to dinner, and two tables were produced covered with
different dishes, of which he ate heartily, showing most singular
dexterity with his chopsticks in removing the flesh of small, bony
fish. It is proper to show appreciation of a repast by noisy
gulpings, and much gurgling and drawing in of the breath.
Etiquette rigidly prescribes these performances, which are most
distressing to a European, and my guest nearly upset my gravity by
them.

The host and the kocho, or chief man of the village, paid me a
formal visit in the evening, and Ito, en grande tenue, exerted
himself immensely on the occasion. They were much surprised at my
not smoking, and supposed me to be under a vow! They asked me many
questions about our customs and Government, but frequently reverted
to tobacco.

I. L. B.



LETTER XX



The Effect of a Chicken--Poor Fare--Slow Travelling--Objects of
Interest--Kak'ke--The Fatal Close--A Great Fire--Security of the
Kuras.

SHINGOJI, July 21.