over to the Well of Moses in the anticipation that I would not
refuse this little request.

I did not refuse it. Nothing could have been more agreeable to me
than this plan of seeing something of the sights and wonders of this
land,--and of this seeing them in good company. I had not heard of
the Well of Moses before, but now that I learned that it was in
Asia,--in another quarter of the globe, to be reached by a transit
of the Red Sea, to be returned from by a journey on camels' backs,--
I burned with anxiety to visit its waters. What a story would this
be for Judkins! This was, no doubt, the point at which the
Israelites had passed. Of those waters had they drunk. I almost
felt that I had already found one of Pharaoh's chariot wheels. I
readily gave my assent, and then, with much ceremony and many low
salaams, Mahmoud and his attendant left me. "I am very glad that I
came to Suez," said I to myself.

I did not sleep much that night, for the mosquitoes of Suez are very
persevering; but I was saved from the agonising despair which these
animals so frequently produce, by my agreeable thoughts as to
Mahmoud al Ackbar. I will put it to any of my readers who have
travelled, whether it is not a painful thing to find one's-self
regarded among strangers without any kindness or ceremonious
courtesy. I had on this account been wretched at Cairo, but all
this was to be made up to me at Suez. Nothing could be more
pleasant than the whole conduct of Mahmoud al Ackbar, and I
determined to take full advantage of it, not caring overmuch what
might be the nature of those previous favours to which he had
alluded. That was his look-out, and if he was satisfied, why should
not I be so also?