a very graphic account of the rafts used for travelling on the river from
Moosul.

[Illustrations: PERSIAN LADY AND PERSIAN SMOKING
DATE, 1827
FROM PERSIA IN "MODERN TRAVELLER" SERIES
BY JOSIAH CONDER (pub. 1830)]

"The rafts used for descending the river consist of a rude deck fastened
to a flooring of blown-up goatskins.... They are used for swimming
bladders as in the ancient world. They serve for barrels to carry
water.... The skins are also used in the bazaars ... for butter, treacle,
honey, etc.... The raft is not rowed, except barely to keep it in the
stream. It keeps twisting round and round, like a stone in the air;... but
... you have all the freshness and life of a vast streaming river and all
the tranquillity of a mere pond.... One day, a man who wished to go down
the river on our raft swam to us on a goatskin.... As a Thames wherry to a
Thames steamer, so is a goatskin to a raft.... It has no prow nor
stern.... If driven ashore it may burst many of the skins, some of which
indeed from time to time need to be blown and tied afresh.... The oars are
enormous, as in English barges. In our small raft two men at a time
rowed.... I cannot tell you now of Mr. Groves's plans. I have a great deal
to learn. The political state of this city, from within and without, is
the very reverse of satisfactory." Then there follows a sentence which
seems to imply that Mr. Groves was expecting too much from his "_monthly_
visits" to the Arabs in the way of moral results. Also there follows a
delightful account of the native doctor's methods of dealing with his
patients. He "contracts to _cure_ the patient ... for a definite sum,
which is paid to him at once. If the patient thinks the price too high,
the doctor lets him get worse; and when he applies anew, of course raises