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What Led to the Discovery of the Source of the Nile by John Hanning Speke
page 25 of 313 (07%)
drove them off by setting fire to the village. The next day, by hard
work, tacking up the wind, which still continued easterly, we
succeeded in reaching Bunder Heis, which, like the last place, was
occupied by the Musa Abokr. There were four small craft lying here,
waiting for cargoes, under lee of a spur of low hills which
constituted the harbour; in which, fortunately, there was very good
fishing to be obtained. We were detained here by adverse and light
winds two days, during which time I went on shore and paid my respects
to the Akil (chief) of the place, who lived in a small box-shaped
stone fort, on the west flank of the village of Heis, which was very
small, composed, as usual, of square mat huts, all built together, and
occupied only by a few women, who made mats, collected gums, and
stored the produce of the interior, as sheep, cows, and ghee, which
their men constantly brought down to them, for shipping off to
Arabia.[9] The Akil's reception was very warm and polite. He offered
me everything at his disposal, and gave as an honorary present a Dumba
sheep and a bowl of sour camel's milk, which I thought at the time the
most delicious thing I ever drank. It is sharp and rough, like
labourers' cider, and, drunk in the heat of the day, is most
refreshing. When first taken, and until the stomach becomes accustomed
to it, it operates like medicine, and I on this occasion was fairly
taken in. The fish we caught were not very good, but comical in
appearance, and of a great variety of the most beautiful prismatic
colours, changing in tint as different lights and shades struck upon
them.

We left Heis on the 25th, with very light and unfavourable winds, and
tracked along shore to the eastward, making very little way. The
weather continuing the same, on the 26th I forced the Nahkoda, much
against his will, on at night, as during the darker hours the winds
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