of Scenery--San Miguel de los Soldados--Perote--Striking Scene before
Daybreak--Non-arrival of Escort--Yankee Coachman--Dispute--Departure
--Company of Lancers--Alcalde--Breakfast at La Ventilla--Pulque--Double
Escort--Crosses--Brigand-looking Tavern-keeper--Ojo de Agua--Arrival at
Puebla--Dress of the Peasants--Christmas-eve--Inn--"_Nacimento_."


JALAPA, 23rd December.


Yesterday morning at two o'clock we rose by candlelight, with the pleasant
prospect of leaving Vera Cruz and of seeing Santa Anna. Two boxes, called
carriages, drawn by mules, were at the door, to convey us to Magna de
Clavo. Senor V---o, C---n, the commander of the Jason, and I being encased
in them, we set off half-asleep. By the faint light, we could just
distinguish as we passed the gates, and the carriages ploughed their way
along nothing but sand--sand--as far as the eye could reach; a few leagues
of Arabian desert.

At length we began to see symptoms of vegetation; occasional palm-trees and
flowers, and by the time we had reached a pretty Indian village, where we
stopped to change mules, the light had broke in, and we seemed to have been
transported, as if by enchantment, from a desert to a garden. It was
altogether a picturesque and striking scene; the huts composed of bamboo,
and thatched with palm-leaves, the Indian women with their long black hair
standing at the doors with their half-naked children, the mules rolling
themselves on the ground, according to their favourite fashion, snow-white
goats browsing amongst the palm-trees, and the air so soft and balmy, the
first fresh breath of morning; the dew-drops still glittering on the broad
leaves of the banana and palm, and all around so silent, cool, and still.