us. The sight of a fire would have been too much luxury; however, they gave
us some hot tea, and very shortly after, I at least can answer for myself,
that I was in bed, and enjoying the most delightful sleep that I have had
since I left New York.

This morning the diligence being at our disposal we did not rise by break
of day, but on the contrary, continued to sleep till eight o'clock. I was
waited on by such a nice, civil, clean little old woman, that I should like
to carry her off with me. Meanwhile, various authorities of the town were
stationed at the door to give C---n welcome when he should appear.

Our breakfast was delicious. Such fresh eggs, and fresh butter, and good
coffee and well-fried chickens; moreover, such good bread and peculiarly
excellent water, that we fell very much in love with Jalapa.

After breakfast we walked out, accompanied by various gentlemen of the
place. The town consists of little more than a few steep streets, very old,
with some large and excellent houses, the best as usual belonging to
English merchants, and many to those of Vera Cruz, who come to live in or
near Jalapa, during the reign of the "_Vomito_." There are some old
churches, a very old convent of Franciscan monks, and a well-supplied
marketplace. Everywhere there are flowers--roses creeping over the old
walls, Indian girls making green garlands for the virgin and saints,
flowers in the shops, flowers at the windows, but, above all, everywhere
one of the most splendid mountain views in the world.

The Cofre de Perote, with its dark pine forests and gigantic _chest_ (a
rock of porphyry which takes that form), and the still loftier snow-white
peak of Orizava, tower above all the others, seeming like the colossal
guardians of the land. The intervening mountains, the dark cliffs and