Arrived at Tepeyagualco, after having passed over a succession of sterile
plains covered with scanty pasture, an alcalde advanced to meet the
diligence, and hospitably made C---n an offer of the before-mentioned
twenty days' entertainment, which he with many thanks declined. Who ate
that breakfast, is buried in the past. Whether the alcalde was glad or
sorry, did not appear. He vanished with a profusion of bows, and was
followed by a large, good-looking Indian woman, who stood behind him while
he made his discourse. Perhaps they eat together the long-prepared feast;
which was at least one of the many tributes paid to the arrival of the
first messenger of peace from the mother-country.

At La Ventilla, however, we descended with a good appetite, and found
several authorities waiting to give C---n a welcome. Here they gave us
delicious chirimoyas, a natural custard, which we liked even upon a first
trial, also granaditas, bananas, sapotes, etc. Here also I first tasted
_pulque;_ and on a first impression it appears to me, that as nectar was
the drink in Olympus, we may fairly conjecture that Pluto cultivated the
maguey in his dominions. The taste and smell combined took me so completely
by surprise, that I am afraid my look of horror must have given mortal
offence to the worthy alcalde who considers it the most delicious beverage
in the world; and in fact, it is said, that when one gets over the first
shock, it is very agreeable. The difficulty must consist in getting over
it.

After a tolerable breakfast, hunger making chile and garlic supportable, we
continued our route; and were informed that the robbers, having grown very
daring, and the next stage being very dangerous, our escort was to be
doubled. Since we left Perote, the country had gradually become more
dreary, and we had again got into the "_mal pais_," where nothing is to be
seen but a few fir-trees and pines, dark and stunted, black masses of lava,