first sight exceedingly desolate-looking in these great wooden doors, like
those of immense barns, the great iron-barred windows, the ill-paved
courtyards, even the flat roofs; and then the streets, where, though this
is a fete-day, we see nothing but groups of peasants or of beggars--the
whole gives the idea of a total absence of comfort. Yet the streets of
Puebla are clean and regular, the houses large, the cathedral magnificent,
and the plaza spacious and handsome.

The cathedral was shut, and is not to be opened till midnight mass, which I
regret the less as we must probably return here some day.

The dress of the Poblana peasants is pretty, especially on fete-days. A
white muslin chemise, trimmed with lace round the skirt, neck, and sleeves,
which are plaited neatly; a petticoat shorter than the chemise, and divided
into two colours, the lower part made generally of a scarlet and black
stuff, a manufacture of the country, and the upper part of yellow satin,
with a satin vest of some bright colour, and covered with gold or silver,
open in front, and turned back. This vest may be worn or omitted, as suits
the taste of the wearer. It is without sleeves, but has straps; the hair
plaited in two behind, and the plaits turned up and fastened together by a
diamond ring; long earrings, and all sorts of chains and medals and
tinkling things worn round the neck. A long, broad, coloured sash,
something like an officer's belt, tied behind after going twice or thrice
round the waist, into which is stuck a silver cigar-case. A small coloured
handkerchief like a broad ribbon, crossing over the neck, is fastened in
front with a brooch, the ends trimmed with silver, and going through the
sash. Over all is thrown a reboso, not over the head, but thrown on like a
scarf; and they wear silk stockings, or more commonly no stockings, and
white satin shoes trimmed with silver.