or white pyramids of grease (_mantequilla_); women with rebosos, short
petticoats of two colours, generally all in rags, yet with a lace border
appearing on their under garment: no stockings, and dirty white satin
shoes, rather shorter than their small brown feet; gentlemen on horseback
with their Mexican saddles and sarapes; lounging _leperos_, moving bundles
of rags, coming to the windows and begging with a most piteous but false
sounding whine, or lying under the arches and lazily inhaling the air and
the sunshine, or sitting at the door for hours basking in the sun or under
the shadow of the wall: Indian women, with their tight petticoat of dark
stuff and tangled hair, plaited with red ribbon, laying down their baskets
to rest, and meanwhile deliberately _examining_ the hair of their copper-
coloured offspring. We have enough to engage our attention for the present.

Several visitors came early--gentlemen, both Spaniards and Mexicans. Senor
A---z, decidedly the ugliest man I ever beheld, with a hump on his back,
and a smile of most portentous hideosity, yet celebrated for his _bonnes
fortunes_; Senor de G---a, Ex-Minister of the Treasury, extremely witty and
agreeable, and with some celebrity as a dramatic writer; Count C---a,
formerly attached to the bedchamber in Spain, married to a pretty
Andalusian, and entirely Mexicanized, his heart where his interests are. He
is very gentlemanlike and distinguished-looking, with good manners, and
extremely eloquent in conversation. I hear him called "_inconsecuente_,"
and capricious, but he has welcomed C---n, who knew him intimately in
Madrid, with all the warmth of ancient friendship.

We are told that a great serenade has been for some time in contemplation,
to be given to C---n, the words, music, and performance by the young
Spaniards here.

27th.--A day or two must elapse before I can satisfy my curiosity by going