milk, the milk being renewed from time to time. Having been cured in
brine, this great sheep-milk curd is slightly salty and somewhat
sharp, but superbly spicy.

When first we tasted it fresh from the keg with salty milk dripping
through our fingers, we gave it full marks. This was at the Staikos
Brothers Greek-import store on West 23rd Street in Manhattan. We then
compared Feta with thin wisps of its grown-up brother, Casere. This
gray and greasy, hard and brittle palate-tickler of sheep's milk made
us bleat for more Feta.


Gorgonzola

Gorgonzola, least pretentious of the Blues triumvirate (including
Roquefort and Stilton) is nonetheless by common consent monarch of all
other Blues from Argentina to Denmark. In England, indeed, many
epicures consider Gorgonzola greater than Stilton, which is the
highest praise any cheese can get there. Like all great cheeses it
has been widely imitated, but never equaled. Imported Gorgonzola, when
fruity ripe, is still firm but creamy and golden inside with rich
green veins running through. Very pungent and highly flavored, it is
eaten sliced or crumbled to flavor salad dressings, like Roquefort.


Hablé Crème Chantilly

The name Hablé Crème Chantilly sounds French, but the cheese is
Swedish and actually lives up to the blurb in the imported package:
"The overall characteristic is indescribable and delightful