freshness."

This exclusive product of the Walk Gärd Creamery was hailed by Sheila
Hibben in _The New Yorker_ of May 6, 1950, as enthusiastically as
Brillat-Savarin would have greeted a new dish, or the Planetarium a
new star:

Endeavoring to be as restrained as I can, I shall merely suggest
that the arrival of Crème Chantilly is a historic event and that
in reporting on it I feel something of the responsibility that
the contemporaries of Madame Harel, the famous cheese-making lady
of Normandy, must have felt when they were passing judgment on
the first Camembert.

Miss Hibben goes on to say that only a fromage à la crème made in
Quebec had come anywhere near her impression of the new Swedish
triumph. She quotes the last word from the makers themselves: "This is
a very special product that has never been made on this earth before,"
and speaks of "the elusive flavor of mushrooms" before summing up,
"the exquisitely textured curd and the unexpectedly fresh flavor
combine to make it one of the most subtly enjoyable foods that have
come my way in a long time."

And so say we--all of us.

Hand Cheese

Hand cheese has this niche in our Cheese Hall of Fame not because we
consider it great, but because it is usually included among the
eighteen varieties on which the hundreds of others are based. It is