The run end is boarded right over, beginning at the bottom, and allowing
each board to overlap that below it by 1 inch. The board ends are flush
with the outer sides of the rafters. When boarding is finished, cut (with a
pad saw) a semicircular-topped run hole, 14 inches high and 8 inches wide,
in the middle of the bottom. Any structural weakness caused by severing the
two lowest boards is counteracted by the two grooved pieces in which the
drop-door moves.

Odds and ends of weather boards should be kept for the door end of the
house, which requires short pieces only, and is not boarded below the top
of b2. The door may be weather-boarded to match the rest of the end, or
covered by a few strakes of match-boarding put on vertically.

The two base pieces, b1 and b2, and the ridge should be marked off for the
rafters at the same time. All three are 10-foot lengths of 4 by 1 wood,
unless you prefer the ridge to project a bit, in which case you must allow
accordingly.

Stand all three pieces together on edge, and make the marks with a square
across the tops. Allow a distance of 4 feet between the outside faces of r1
and r3; halve this distance to get the centre of r2; and subdivide the
distance between r3 and r6 so that each rafter is separated from its
neighbours by an equal space, which will be 1 foot 11 inches. Number the
marks and continue them down the sides of the boards with the square. There
should be a mark on each side of the place to be occupied by the
intermediate rafters, to prevent mistakes; for it is obvious that if a
rafter is fixed on the left side of a single ridge mark and on the right of
the corresponding mark on the base, the result will not be pleasing.

Erection.--The services of a second pair of hands are needed here, to