hold while nailing is done. Nail holes having been drilled in the tops of
the rafters and in the base pieces, the ends are stood upright and tacked
to the ridge at the places marked for them, and after them the intermediate
rafters, working from one end to the other. Then tack on the base pieces,
b1, b3. Get the ends quite perpendicular, and nail a temporary cross strut
or two on the outside of the rafters to prevent shifting while the final
nailing up is done.

Covering the Shed.--Sixteen boards, 4 feet 2 inches long, are needed for
each side, as, owing to the overlap of one inch, each tier covers only five
of the 80 inches. The ridge is made watertight by a strip of sheet zinc, a
foot wide, bent over the top and nailed along each edge.

Waterproofing.--All the woodwork should now be given a coating of
well-boiled tar, paint, creosote, or some other preservative, worked well
down into the cracks. Creosote and stoprot are most convenient to use, as
they dry quickly.

Netting.--When the preservative has dried, fix on the netting with
3/4-inch wire staples. Begin at the base on one side, strain the netting
over the ridge, and down to the base on the other side. Be careful not to
draw the rafters out of line sideways. The last edge stapled should be that
on the roof of the house.

Note.--When driving nails or staples into a rafter or other part, get a
helper to hold up some object considerably heavier than the hammer on the
farther side to deaden the blow. Lack of such support may cause damage,
besides making the work much more tedious and difficult.

Finishing off.--The doors are now hung, and fitted with buttons and