The Art of Perfumery - And Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants by George William Septimus Piesse
page 126 of 292 (43%)
page 126 of 292 (43%)
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We have spoken of the difference in the odor between the English and
French spirit; the marked distinction of British and Parisian perfumes made according to the same recipes is entirely due to the different spirits employed. Owing to the strong "bouquet," as the French say, of their spirit in comparison with ours, the continental perfumers claim a superiority in the quality of their perfumes. Now, although we candidly admit that _some_ odors are better when prepared with grape spirit than with that from corn spirit, yet there are others which are undoubtedly the best when prepared with spirit derived from the latter source. Musk, ambergris, civet, violet, tubereuse, and jasmine, if we require to retain their true aroma when in solution in alcohol, must be made with the British spirit. All the citrine odors, verveine, vulnerary waters, Eau de Cologne, Eau de Portugal, Eau d'Arquebuzade, and lavender, can alone be brought to perfection by using the French spirit in their manufacture. If extract of jasmine, or extract of violet, &c., be made with the French or brandy spirit, the true characteristic odor of the flower is lost to the olfactory nerve--so completely does the oeanthic ether of the grape spirit hide the flowery aroma of the otto of violet in solution with it. This solves the paradox that English extract of violet and its compounds, "spring flowers," &c., is at all times in demand on the Continent, although the very flowers with which we make it are grown there. On the contrary, if an English perfumer attempts to make Eau de Portugal, &c., to bear any comparison as a fine odor to that made by Lubin, of Paris, without using grape spirit, his attempts will prove a failure. True, he makes Eau de Portugal even with English corn spirit, but judges of the article--and they alone can stamp its merit--discover |
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