21. For its thickness, or solidity, a custard depends largely on the
thickening property of the protein material in the eggs. Here, again, as
in the preparation of other foods, only a certain proportion of milk and
eggs will thicken, or solidify, upon being cooked. In general, the
correct proportion for a plain custard is _1 egg to 1 cupful of milk_.
So important is this proportion that it should be memorized. Before the
eggs are added to the milk, they are, of course, beaten, but their
beating is a matter of little consequence, for they are used merely to
supply thickening and give richness and not to produce lightness.
Therefore, they need only be mixed well and beaten slightly, as any
increase in the amount of the beating adds nothing.

The sweetening and flavoring used in custards should be in sufficient
quantity to suit the tastes of those who are to eat the dessert.
However, the usual proportion of sugar is _1 tablespoonful to 1 egg and
1 cupful of milk_. A tiny pinch of salt added to a mixture of this kind
always improves its flavor and should never be omitted.

Because of the various ways of making custards, they differ somewhat
when they are done. They may be thin enough to pour or they may be set
and so thick that they can be cut. The consistency of the finished
product depends, of course, on the proportion of the ingredients used
and the method of cookery adopted.


RECIPES FOR CUSTARDS AND RELATED DESSERTS

22. BAKED CUSTARD.--Practically no skill is required in the preparation
of baked custard, but care must be taken during the baking in order that