the right temperature be applied for the proper length of time. Custard
of this kind is quickly made and finds favor with most persons. It may
be baked in individual baking dishes and then served in these or it may
be cooked in a large baking dish and served either before or after it is
placed on the table. Individual baking dishes are perhaps more
satisfactory, for, as there is a smaller amount of material, the heat
can penetrate more quickly and evenly to the center. Whatever kind of
dish is used, however, should be placed in a pan of warm water, so that
the custard will bake evenly. The water in the pan should not boil, as
this tends to make the custard whey, or separate.

[Illustration: FIG. 1, Testing doneness of custard with knife.]

23. Several tests can be applied to custard to determine whether it is
sufficiently baked. As the heat penetrates to the center last, this part
is the last to cook and it is therefore the place where the testing
should be done. One test consists in touching the center with the tip of
the finger to find out whether it is firm or not. A more common test,
however, is shown in Fig. 1. To perform this test, the blade of a silver
knife is inserted in the center, as illustrated. If the blade comes out
clean, it may be known that the custard is sufficiently baked, but if
the mixture sticks to the knife, the custard requires more baking.
Before the knife blade is inserted, however, the skin that covers the
custard must be broken; if this is not done, the skin is sure to cling
to the knife.

24. The chief requirement of a successful custard is that its texture be
right, and the temperature at which the baking is done is largely
responsible for this point. Too high a temperature or too long cooking
will cause the custard to curdle and leave the edges full of holes. A